An enchanted forest, where the darkness is broken and defeated by glimmers of light .
It is the scenario imagined by Antonio Marras to unveil his new creations – for men and women – for next winter, inspired as usual by the suggestions of Sardinia , his native land, but, this time, with a special tribute to one of the women symbol of the island: Grazia Deledda.
The designer from Alghero presented his new collection in Milan, in his atelier in via Cola di Rienzo, as part of Fashion Week 2023.
An event that attracted a crowd of journalists, photographers, insiders and fashion enthusiasts and where the name of the Nobel Prize-winning writer often resonated, evoked as an inspiring Muse and model of a woman - and of style - to be discovered and rediscovered .
«Grazia Deledda is a character I had never had the courage to touch. But I've always admired her, from a distance, with modesty. For this collection, instead, I decided to approach her, to be inspired by her, because I felt it was the right moment ».
«Grazia Deledda – adds Marras – is a woman born at the end of the 19th century. She attended school until fourth grade and decided to become a writer. Then she moves to Rome, where she marries a man who becomes her secretary. In his life and in his works we find what were his peculiar characteristics and his aspirations, cultivated with great stubbornness, despite the difficulties, in a sort of "I wanted, very strongly I wanted". A constancy, strength and determination that eventually led her to win the Nobel Prize for literature. In short, a woman who has found a glimmer of light in the darkness of the forest. Which is what I hope and what we all hope for».
How does all this translate into fashion? «In a story that is inspired by the temperament of this exceptional woman and by the suggestions that her history and her land provide, which is also mine, Sardinia. So clothes and "rags", as I call them, which are both Nuragic and modern, archaic but at the same time contemporary ».
Fashion Week Milano: la nuova collezione di Antonio Marras
And so here are models parading on the catwalk wearing coats with patterns that recall those of the ancient Sardinian carpets, thick wool sweaters that are inspired by the tradition of shepherds, lace and embroidery that are also found in the clothes of the most ancient island tradition, as well as hairstyles and veiled faces. And then floral prints, stocking trousers, brocade suits. Without forgetting the international references, as in the case of the tartan of the Scottish kilts
As for the "Muse" Deledda, how would Antonio Marras dress her today? "With a large coat, which obviously recalls the mats of Sardinia , a land where she has not often returned, unlike me, who have always been nomadic and transhumant".