The fashion industry is "a system that involves everyone in providing strong responses to difficult times," says Carlo Capasa, president of the National Chamber of Fashion, presenting the next Milan Fashion Week, which, together with Pitti, makes Italian men's fashion "the first in the world : from Florence you go directly to Milan, and we must be proud to be a key player in the sector."
To remain so, however, fashion is turning to politicians for help: "We are Italy's second-largest industry, but there are factors like tariffs, the weak dollar, and the loss of exports to China that are beyond our control. We need to take action as a system, and we will ask the government," explains Capasa, "for specific export measures." "We have two wars and the crisis in Iran, which is why," reiterates the head of the Italian Fashion Chamber, "we need to work on energy costs and measures that encourage exports."
This is also because Italian fashion relies on exports: €86.676 billion in 2025 alone, a 4.9% decline from the previous year. A further 1.5% decline is expected for 2026, as is revenue, "but it depends on how long the crisis in the Gulf lasts, not only due to energy costs but also because it's an area," Capasa observes, "where fashion was doing well. If a solution is found by June, we could break even for the year, but if the crisis persists, there will be obvious damage." Therefore, "we need to do something, think about how to react as a system, because right now, exports must be protected, and let's not forget that we export 90% of our revenue." Also because, if the overall trade balance in 2025 was positive by 39 billion euros, it is however 5 billion less than that of 2024 and "in 2026 we expect a surplus of 37, therefore with a loss of almost 7 billion in two years".
Therefore, "we as an association," he concludes, "will do our utmost to encourage our government to adopt significant measures" capable of stemming the 3.1% decline in turnover for 2025, which fell from €95,841 million to €92,870 million. "It's like losing an industry," comments Capasa, presenting the next Milan Men's Fashion Week, scheduled for June 19-23.
Organized with the support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, the Italian Trade Agency (ITA), and the City of Milan, this edition features 75 events in total: 16 physical fashion shows and 6 digital events, 44 presentations, 2 presentations by appointment, and 7 events. New brands on the fashion show calendar include Thom Browne, Garcias, Martin Quad, and Shinyakozuka. Among the new additions, on June 22, Leo Dell'Orco and Silvana Armani will present, for the first time together, the Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2027 Men's collection and a selection of pieces from the Giorgio Armani Women's Cruise 2027 collection. The brands Caruso, Massimo Alba, and Piacenza 1733 are back on the schedule, and brands such as Dodo are making their debut. Finally, new-generation designers such as Domenico Orefice and Simon Cracker will present their fashion shows at the Fondazione Sozzani.
(Unioneonline/D)
