Cuisine is a language, and when a chef like Davide Oldani chooses to participate in a festival dedicated to a symbolic product, the gesture takes on a meaning that goes beyond the recipe. His presence at the Bottarga Festival is not only a recognition of the gastronomic value of this ingredient, but also an act of respect for Sardinia and its heritage.
Last night the chef closed the three-day event dedicated to Sardinian gold, which brought the Cabras area to life last weekend with guided tastings, workshops, and moments of reflection.
"A local product defines a region," says Oldani. "That's what intrigued me and convinced me to come here. It's definitely good for Italy, good for Italian cuisine, and good for Sardinian cuisine." A statement that underscores the centrality of bottarga as an identity, even before its flavor.
The chef at D'O in Cornaredo, one of the most authoritative ambassadors of contemporary Italian cuisine, knows the island well: " I come to Sardinia at least twice a year for work, and every time I discover or rediscover something new . It could be an ingredient, a technique, a preparation method. In my restaurant, more or less, a Sardinian product is always on the menu."
Bottarga as a contemporary ingredient
For Oldani, bottarga is a raw material that lends itself to modern interpretations without betraying its essence. " I like its flavor: it's not sweet, it's not overpowering, it's elegant. And above all, I like the idea of it being grated with a special grater, so that it is evenly distributed across the plate , accompanying each spoonful without overpowering it. It's different when it's sliced: in that case, the flavor is isolated in a single moment."
It's no coincidence that for the Festival he chose to pair it with white rice with citrus fruits and blueberries : a play of contrasts that he calls "balanced," the hallmark of his cuisine for years. The combination of the sweetness of the fruit, the freshness of the citrus, and the savory flavor of the bottarga becomes a contemporary tale of the Mediterranean.
Oldani's reflection, however, goes beyond the gastronomic aspect. " Bottarga identifies Sardinia . Indeed, let's protect this name. Whether it's a historical process, whether it comes from a product, let's ensure it remains ours. We must defend the value of this heritage."
An invitation that touches on a timely topic: the need to protect products tied to a territory not only through quality, but also through official recognition, protected labels on the product, and likely also on its production process, and with a coherent and informed narrative.
The festival as an opportunity for dialogue
The presence of a chef like Oldani at the Bottarga Festival confirms the event's purpose: not only to celebrate a product, but also to bring together diverse culinary worlds. It's a dialogue that benefits the region and projects Sardinia into an increasingly vibrant dimension, capable of attracting and showcasing its unique identities.
Bottarga—a food rooted in Mediterranean history, from the Phoenician civilizations to the Sardinian coast—can become an ambassador for an entire island. An ingredient that, in the hands of a chef, transforms into a message. And as Oldani reminds us, it is a symbol that must be protected. Because behind every flake of grated bottarga lies not just a flavor, but the memory of a place, of those who inhabit it, and of those who carry it with them throughout the world.