The yardstick is the senses. Plus the experiences they are able to evoke. The world of winemaking is varied and vast. And to be able to travel there with awareness, here is "Vitae", the 2023 Wine Guide of the Italian Sommelier Association.
A volume of over 1320 pages that tells over 30 thousand labels from all over Italy and awards prizes. To the excellences, to the excellences among the excellences, but also to the wines capable of arousing "love at first sip" and to the best for the relationship between value and price. Ninth edition, with large numbers, also for Sardinia, where companies are experiencing a period of evolution and research, with roots (of vines) firmly planted in tradition.
The guide was presented this morning in Cagliari in the hall on the top floor of the Banco di Sardegna building. The president of Ais Sardegna, Antonio Furesi, did the honors, who after having praised the great effort to obtain an excellent result, after years of the pandemic, also talks about the news: «This year we are also changing the updated app and renewed: it will be the point of reference for wine enthusiasts, who will find all the information contained in the paper volume, wherever they are».
The operative arm in the creation of the Guide in Sardinia was Pierpaolo Fiori: «On the island, 62 companies have collaborated with us, for a total of 387 wines tasted. Numbers never reached before», he explains, «which allowed us to take a detailed picture of the sector and to trace the trend lines». Which certify a certain stagnation in the production of still rosés, «while sparkling wines are increasing. There is a growing trend towards maceration in amphorae, which demonstrates increased courage. While fresh red wines are becoming more and more popular, without demanding passages in barrels, which can also be appreciated by the youngest». Fiori also points out a «pleasant anomaly: this seems to be the year of Vernaccia. We tasted some extraordinary ones».
THE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. But whoever will hold the Guide in hand wants to know the opinions of the experts. The prize of excellence , the Tastevin, logo of the Italian Sommelier Association, was awarded to Vermentino di Sardegna C'era una volta 2019 by Giovanna Chessa. Excellence among the excellences that have received the "Four screws". Which are:
755 MT 2020 – Jankara
AL SOL SHINES 2020 – The Contralta
ANGIALIS 2017 – Argiolas
BARRILE 2027 – Attilio Contini
BARRUA 2019 – Agripunica
BE MOON 2019 – Bentu Moon
CAGLIARI MALVASIA ESTISSA 2020 – Audarya
CLASSIC CANNONAU OF SARDINIA D53 2018 – Cantina Dorgali
CANNONAU OF SARDINIA SENES RESERVE 2018 – Argiolas
CARIGNANO DEL SULIS PASSITO FORTE RED 2019 – Mesa (Gemma)
CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS SUPERIORE GAVINO 2019 – Mesa
CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS SUPERIORE TERRE BRUNE 2018 – Cantina Santadi
ENTEMNARI 2020 – Shovel
HASSAN 2018 – Asinara Estate (Bud)
LATINIA 2017 – Santadi Winery
LOGHERI – Oliena Cellar
MALVASIA DI BOSA RESERVE 2016 – Giovanni Battista Columbu
MANDROLISAI MEMORIAS CRECCHERIE 2020 – Fradiles
MANDROLISAI URAS 2019 – The garage workers of Sorgono
MOSCATO DI SORSO SENNORI ORO GOLD 2020 – Romangia winemakers
SU'OLTRE 2019 – Cantine Su'Entu
TURRIGA 2018 – Argiolas (Gemma)
VERMENTINO DI GALLURA LATE HARVEST MONTIDIMOLA 2020 – Vigne Surrau
VERMENTINO OF SARDINIA CAYENNA SUBMARINER 2021 – Tenuta Asinara
VERNACCIA DI ORISTANO ANTICO GREGORI 1979 – Attilio Contini (Gemma)
VERNACCIA DI ORISTANO JUDIKES RESERVE 2008 – Vernaccia cellar
VERNACCIA DI ORISTANO RESERVE 1997 – Attilio Contini (Gemma)
VT 2020 - Capichera
Among these, five were also awarded with the gem (above in bold), which indicate the wines with the best performances.
Also noteworthy are the Cupido wines, which for Sardinian sommeliers made love strike at the first sip. They are the Cannonau di Sardegna Perda Rubia 2019 (Tenute Perda Rubia), the Tìros 2017 (Siddùra) and the Ziru 2020 (Antonella Corda).
Experts think of all budgets. So here is the mark of the balance, which indicates the best wines in terms of value for money. To speak of "quality" would be a deminutio. The wines are the Cannonau di Sardegna Neale 2019 (Cantine di Orgosolo), the Nasco di Cagliari Montesicci 2021 (Cantine di Dolianova), the Nuragus di Cagliari Milleluci 2021 (Pala). the Tino Sur Lie 2020 (Mora&memo) and the Vermentino di Sardegna Tuvaoes 2021 (Giovanna Cherchi).
Henry Fresu